What We're Reading: The Rake

I'm probably stating the obvious when I point out that, for some time now, the best men's style journals and magazines are not coming out of the East Coast (as GQ, Vogue, or Esquire might have you believe), but are actually originating in the Far East.

After flipping through just a few pages of magazines such as Leon, Men's Ex and especially the long-defunct Last, one gets the sense that the Japanese publishing markets' attempts to indulge their domestic dandies' sartorial extravagances are truly without equal.

Now, one could certainly argue that, while the photography is unparalleled, there will always exist a lack of  sufficient content or substance in any Japanese-language magazine being read by any English-speaking "reader." This is certainly a valid claim, although shoe connoisseurs the world over would no doubt state unequivocally that he or she would rather ogle an issue of Last over any "style" magazine published expressly for the American market.

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All of which brings us to The Rake. Touted as "The Modern Voice of Classic Elegance," in my opinion this publication manages to exceed the high expectations set by some of its older regional brethren. Of course, for this reader, it has the considerable advantage of being written entirely in English! Despite the rather hefty US import price per issue (USD $30.00) from Singapore, the Uptown Dandy still would not hesitate to say that The Rake is clearly one of the best men's style magazines in the world today. Contributors generally include some of the leading writers on the sartorial arts, including James Sherwood and G. Bruce Boyer; and while there is a decent amount of advertisements included between the covers, they generally don't detract from the enjoyable reading experience. The paper stock is also top quality (if that is your thing).

I particularly enjoy the segments on style icons from the Golden Age of Hollywood. However, it must be said that while Gable and Flynn certainly deserve their due, we wait with bated breath for the spotlight to be focused squarely on that lost style icon of the silver screen and original Broadway dandy, George Raft. In the meantime, enjoy The Rake.

(Note to Mr. Koh - the Uptown Dandy is tirelessly working on a post that will explore the significant style contributions of Mr. Raft, both during his time in New York as a denizen of the Great White Way, and upon his arrival in Hollywood. We hope that you'll enjoy reading it as much as we've enjoyed reading The Rake :-)

Get Some Argyle in Your Life!

Louis Armstrong in Argyle (and Plus-Fours); Tour of London - early 1930s

Ever since De'voreaux White* parked his stretched limosine in the basement garage of the Nakatomi Plaza building while waiting for Detective John McLane (Bruce Willis) to pick up his wife Holly (Bonnie Bedelia) from the office Christmas party, fashionistas everywhere have been predicting the re-emergence of that colorful staple of golf courses and Irish riverdance stages everywhere: the argyle sock.

Argyle offerings from Turnbull & Asser

Argyle allows you to brighten otherwise dark color schemes - black argyle socks with grey and tan diamonds from Pantherella; navy blue argyle socks with creme and lime diamonds from Turnbull & Asser

The argyle pattern is derived from the tartan of Clan Campbell, of Argyll in western Scotland, and was used for kilts and plaids, and from the patterned socks worn by Scottish Highlanders since at least the 17th century. These were generally known as "tartan hose". Argyle knitwear became fashionable in England and then the United States after the first World War. Pringle of Scotland popularised the design in the 1920s, and was helped by its identification with the Duke of Windsor. The Duke, like others, used this pattern for golf clothing: both for jerseys and for the long socks needed for the plus-fours trouser fashion of the day (see Mr. Armstrong above).

Well, it looks like the time for Argyle's close-up has arrived. So, no matter the season, do as an uptown dandy would - spice up those somber flannels and drab overcoats and get some argyle in your life! Let bright pastels and cheerful color palettes be the watchword of your day. At the very least, gentlemen, let's liven up those earth tones . . .

Light brown argyle socks with black, creme, and grey from Pantherella; John Lobb Tudor in Parisian Brown museum calf; light brown tweed trousers from Saint Andrews.

*Yes, you guessed it - his character's name was Argyle.

"A Fine English Brogue" - Edward Green's Falkirk

There are many different types of shoes - there are loafers, oxfords, derbies, and boots, among others. Beyond the type of shoe, there are also a variety of lasts (the last is the form or shape of the shoe) and a plethora of leather patinas to set the avid shoe collector's heart a-flutter. The serious shoe connoisseur will usually have all of the staples covered, but there is always one type of shoe in his (or her) closet that holds a place in his (or her) heart above all others.

For some, it is crocodile skin loafers. For others, a double-soled wingtip blucher in shell cordovan leather. These are lovely choices. For An Uptown Dandy, though, nothing catches his eye quite like a well-made full brogue oxford dress shoe.

For the uninitiated, the brogue is a style of low-heeled shoe or boot traditionally characterized by multiple-piece, sturdy leather uppers with decorative perforations (or "broguing") and serration along the pieces' visible edges. Modern brogues trace their roots to a rudimentary shoe originating in Scotland and Ireland that was constructed using untanned leather with perforations that allowed water to drain from the shoes when the wearer crossed wet terrain such as a bog. In my previous posts, I provided some examples of an American-made wingtip (or full brogue) shoe:

In my thrifting post, I focused on an example of an English-made captoe (or half brogue or semi brogue) shoe:

Now, these are all quite nice. However, for an example of broguing run elegantly amok, one should look no further than Edward Green's Falkirk.

This particular pair is on the 82 last- a bit of an elongated toe shape but not as narrow or slender as Edward Green's 888 last - and the Chestnut Antique color (Edward Green offers a Made To Order service so last, leather and color can be designed to your exact specifications). Frankly, broguing aside, the leather patina at the toe box and the back quarters is a thing of beauty in and of itself.

The medallion design is in the "thistle" pattern - I have only seen this medallion on the Falkirk (someone please let me know if you've seen it on another Edward Green model).



Essentially what we have here is a wingtip that is very close in appearance to Edward Green's Malvern. But the additional broguing along the back quarters and along the edges behind the wingtips places this shoe in a sartorial realm all its own.

The intricate detailing is truly breathtaking and an absolutely exquisite example of English craftsmanship at its finest.