Edward Green for Ralph Lauren's Purple Label: The Brendon

As most of you know, my mental wish list for shoes doesn't stray very far from captoe and wingtip brogues - usually the variety I'm looking for is with regards to the shade of brown or the last. Occasionally, however, I do like to try a norwegian split-toe or a loafer or even the odd chukka boot - usually for business casual attire or even to wear with denim. The cordovan split-toe loafers from Carmina that I purchased in the spring are one recent example, as well as the deadstock Peal loafers made by Edward Green that I posted pictures of a few weeks ago.

With that in mind, I always try to drop into the shoe department at Ralph Lauren's Rhinelander Mansion at 72nd Street and Madison Avenue, to peruse the new models on display and chat with Erik Walker, the resident shoe guru.

The last few times I've passed by, I was mesmerized by one model named the Brendon, which is essentially a 3-eyelet version of Edward Green's iconoclastic Dover shoe. A split-toe lace-up, the apron of the Dover (and Brendon) is famously made by hand and stitched together using pig bristles. The operation requires such skill and attention to detail that the time involved to complete the stitching is reflected in the high - even by Edward Green standards - price of the shoes, which are probably the most expensive in Edward Green's ready-to-wear cannon.

Unfortunately, the Brendon has been sold out in my size for some time at Ralph Lauren, but after patiently biding my time (for awhile!) I was finally able to track down a pair. And it was worth the wait. The boots come in Edward Green's dark oak calf leather, a dark brown that really shows off the company's burnishing techniques. The darker patina around the toe box and rear quarters is just exquisite. The boots also feature a double sole, which gives them a more substantive, less dainty countenance  - in the end, this is a dress boot but it has some heft to it.

Interestingly, the Brendon was made on the 89 last, Ralph Lauren's own Edward Green last. Shoes on this last usually provide a generous width, but the toe box retains a sleek, elegant appearance. Recently, most RL models have been made on the elongated, sleeker 888 last, and several sources have pointed out that the 89 is in the process of being phased out in favor of the 888. If that is indeed the case, I feel fortunate to have been able to purchase one last pair on what is a truly sublime last from Edward Green.

More J&M Handmade 100s: Deadstock Custom Alligator

Many of you who follow An Uptown Dandy will recall my first post - a look at the almost-mythical Johnston & Murphy Handmade 100s. I'm lucky enough to own a few pairs, but these shoes are becoming so rare that  I'm always excited when someone offers to share a few images of their own Handmade 100s.

One reader, John, took the time to take some absolutely stunning pictures of his deadstock captoe custom-made Handmade 100s featuring alligator skins in black and brown. Needless to say, I was floored, having never seen anything like this before.

These shoes were made in the 1990s by J&M's Dominick Dimeola on a custom last with special insoles/linings and specially fitted heels.

John also included some other pics which I've included at the end of the post, because one can never see too many examples of American shoe-making at its finest.

Black Anaconda Plaintoe

Black Calf Leather Captoe

Brown Calf Leather Wingtip

Anyway, enough idle chit-chat - enjoy the pics!

Vintage Edward Green for Brooks Brothers' Peal & Co.: The Piccadilly Loafer

At some point in the 1960s, Brooks Brothers acquired the venerable British shoe-making company Peal & Co. Prior to that company's dissolution, Peal & Co. was known for quality footwear of the highest caliber, at one point holding King George V's royal warrant. Eventually, Brooks' Peal line became something of a catch-all name for footwear made by a variety of Northampton shoemakers - all rebadged and sold under the Peal name. Makers at one time or another have included Crockett & Jones, Alfred Sargent, and Church's.

Brooks Brothers has recently begun stocking Edward Green shoes under that company's own imprint, but "the shoemaker to the discerning few"  also once provided shoes to Brooks Brothers under the Peal & Co. label. It isn't too hard to find used Peal shoes by Edward Green, but in most cases the shoes will be well-worn and in need of some TLC to get the shoes in  wearable condition.

Imagine my surprise when I was lucky enough to come into possession of a pair of dead-stock Peal & Co. loafers made by Edward Green - with vintage shoe bags from Brooks Brothers included. I'm always interested in seeing pristine examples of vintage British footwear that was made 25-30 years ago - the fact that these shoes fit me is an added plus. However, I'm now forced to decide whether I should actually add these shoes to the rotation or to the display case with my vintage Edward Green collection. Decisions, decisions.

Anyway, its probably also worth pointing out that these Peal shoes are a little different - most Peal shoes by Edward Green use the old sizing system wherein the stamped numbers indicate sizing and width. This pair must not be quite as old, as you can see Edward Green's later method of writing the size, width, and last information on the inside of the shoe. In this case, the loafers were made on Edward Green's 184 loafer last. The small numeral above the sizing info indicates that 2 pairs of 9.5E shoes were included in this particular Peal shipment that was sent to Brooks Brothers.

The shoes are in a lovely shade of antique chestnut calf. It's actually a bit lighter than traditional antique chestnut - its actually somewhere between chestnut and edwardian antique. The soles are channeled, with a slightly bevelled waist - however, the waist is essentially "flat" when compared to what you see on today's Edward Green shoes or similar offerings from Gaziano & Girling or John Lobb. The "Made In England" stamp, so familiar to fans of Edward Green, is not on the waist but can instead be found at the toe of the sole. Interestingly, the waist of the sole and the heel have been stamped "Peal," which reminded me of Lobb's similar style of stamping their bespoke offerings.

This particular model appears to be similar to Edward Green's Piccadilly loafer. One interesting design feature of the loafer is the split seam along the inner part of the loafer's upper. Most of the loafers I've purchased recently have no such seam showing - whether this was a design preference or the result of technological limitations of the time is unclear.

In any event, yet another lovely pair of shoes from Edward Green.