A Fine Man Once Said:

"Part of the 10 million I spent on gambling, part of it on booze, and part of it on women. The rest I spent foolishly."

- George Raft





Tuesday, July 22, 2014

A bit of Savile Row right off Madison Avenue - Logsdail Tailoring


The Logsdail men - Len Sr. and Leonard - 
with their copy of The Best Dressed Man In The Room

This post is a long time coming, but better late than never! A few months ago, I had the pleasure of meeting the Logsdail men - Len Jr. and Sr. They both enjoyed The Best Dressed Man In The Room, so if you happen to drop by their offices anytime soon, you should feel free to peruse their copy for ideas :-) Anyway, the Logsdail work rooms aren't very far from my office, so I dropped by one day at Len Jr.'s invitation.

The book shelf/liquor cabinet at Leonard Logsdail Tailoring.

Not much needs to be said here about Logsdail bespoke offerings that hasn't been said elsewhere by more knowledgeable people than myself. The Logsdail shoulder is a thing of beauty and quite distinct in its shape and structure. If you're unfamiliar with the Logsdail cut, you can view it in all of its cinematic glory in films such as American Gangster, Wall Street 2, and The Wolf of Wall Street, among others.

Plush leather club chairs and  wall full of fabric options -
what more can you ask for?

While the bespoke items are probably out of my price range, I was pleasantly surprised to discover that there are other options available. There is a semi-bespoke Logsdail line that offers several bespoke touches, but perhaps of more interest to gentlemen on a stricter budget will be the offerings available from Len Jr.'s Carnaby Custom label. These days, there are so many different names to describe different levels of tailoring options, but I would probably describe the Carnaby Custom suits as in line with a made-to-measure program that begins at just over $1000. And there are literally dozens of fabric books to choose from - of course, while certain fabrics will add to the cost, you'll be sure to find something to suit your fancy.

More fabrics and tailoring samples.

Both Logsdails certainly know their business, so spending a few minutes with them was quite interesting. They were both quite generous with their time, and were happy to show me a few pieces that were in the process of being completed, and share a few anecdotes about their experiences in the tailoring business. I hope to be able to commission a suit from them in the near future, most likely in the semi-bespoke range, but if that experience turns out to be anything like the short time that I spent in their work space, it will be a truly enlightening and educational experience.


Wednesday, July 16, 2014

In Praise of The Single-breasted Peaked Lapel Suit


An Uptown Dandy, left, 
in his single-breasted peaked lapel three-piece suit.

Its always interesting to check in at Put This On to see what Jesse, Derek and the crew over there are talking about. Their eBay finds are always a veritable treasure trove, and they always offer insightful and practical advice on what to wear and how to wear it. One of Derek's recent posts focused on the single-breasted peaked lapel suit of Jeff from Louisville (aka The Thrifty Gent). And there are the usual helpful suggestions to ensure that you'll wear it well. And the point about the button stance is a very good one (you can find Derek's post here). 

Jeff, the Thrifty Gent, in his single-breasted peaked lapel suit.

Jeff''s suit actually looks quite similar to my favorite suit, which is also from Ralph Lauren's Purple Label. Of course, if you're going to experiment with the peaked lapel single-breasted, there is something to be said for the classically elegant appearance of the single-breasted peaked lapel suit with a vest. In my opinion, the vest helps to offset the more pronounced lines of the peaked lapel, particularly on the RLPL model with its wider contours.

George Raft, center, in Night After Night, 
in single-breasted peaked lapel three-piece suit.

One final consideration: the single-breasted three-piece suit with peaked lapels was something of a staple during the golden age of men's style. George Raft was one of many adherents to the style, and he wore it to great effect in many films, including the classic Night After Night in 1932. Raft's custom-made version of the three-piece classic provides an example of what Derek refers to as the truncated lapels, because it does feature a button placement that is considerably higher than the actual waistline. But this might have also taken into account the high-backed trousers of the era, which essentially raised the appearance of the waistline to the eye of the casual observer. The combination of vest and high-waisted trouser prevents the unsightly gap of exposed shirt and belt that is prominent today because of the popularity of low-rise trousers and shorter jackets. In any event, Raft's higher arm-hole placement and structured shoulder complete what is an absolutely stunning silhouette. Unfortunately for Raft's, Night After Night featured Mae West's scene-stealing film debut, but thankfully the single-breasted peaked lapel suit is apparently still going strong.

Saturday, July 12, 2014

Stocked and Reloaded: More of The Best Dressed Man In The Room at The Armoury Tribeca


Dan Flores with Jeff Hilliard of the Armoury Tribeca

I have it on good authority that, of all of the amazing titles available on classic men's style at The Armoury's Tribeca location, The Best Dressed Man In The Room is the only book to have flown off the shelves and sold out. Not to worry - the Armoury Tribeca has re-stocked, so if you're in the market for a copy, definitely drop in to 168 Duane Street. While you're there, definitely check out some of the other hard to find items in stock at the moment, from Koji Suzuki shoes to Nackymade sunglasses.