A Fine Man Once Said:

"Part of the 10 million I spent on gambling, part of it on booze, and part of it on women. The rest I spent foolishly."

- George Raft

Thursday, August 18, 2011

Vintage Edward Green for Cole Haan: The Cadogan

Vintage Edward Green Cadogan, made in the mid-to-late 1980s for Cole Haan
(from part one of the vintage Edward Green collection).

I was and still remain a great fan of Elmore Leonard, who came to fame as a writer of westerns before penning such crime fiction classics as Get Shorty, Out of Sight, and Rum Punch (later filmed under the title "Jackie Brown").

One thing that used to confuse me in Leonard's later crime stories was his use of Cole Haan as a signifier of the ostentatiousness of the criminal nouveau riche, be he native to Miami or Detroit. Invariably, Leonard would have his sockless yet suave villain fitted out in a pair of Cole Haan loafers.

At first, I was baffled. By the time I was looking to purchase decent dress shoes, Cole Haan had seized production in the United States and had become a purveyor of the dreaded square-toed glued shoe. In fairness, it should be noted that the company never ceased to produce an appealing version of the saddle shoe with the red rubber sole, which harkened back to Cole Haan's glory days.

In any event, my apologies for ever doubting you, Mr. Leonard. In addition to once producing well-made shoes in the USA, Cole Haan apparently also contracted with the "shoemaker to the discerning few," Edward Green, to provide shoes made in England to its own customers. As you can see, the pristine condition of this pair of shoes almost 25 years after it was produced attests to the high standards and commitment to quality once held by Cole Haan.

Full-Frontal of Edward Green's 33 last. I'm not a big fan of the flat laces,
but I believe those are the original laces from the 1980s.

The shoes were in very good condition when I discovered the pair. There was some minor creasing in the normal places, but the Saphyr Renovateur really revived the leather and eliminated any obvious creasing.

If there was an issue with the shoes, it would be the mild discoloration around the perforations on the medallion. This could just as easily be described by someone else as patina or burnishing. I'm not entirely sure what may have caused that.

Classic broguing from the master, Edward Green.

The soles are stamped "Made in England." The heels appear to be original as well. The wear on the sole and rubber heel counter is pretty mild. The shoes really don't appear to have been worn very much in the last 25 years.

The inner sole stamp reads "Cole Haan - Made in England." I have seen other Edward Green models for Cole Haan where the stamp reads "Edward Green for Cole Haan."
Obviously, these are not quite as easy to spot, so keep your eyes peeled :-)

These pics do look a but blurry to me (some do anyway),
so I may replace one or two in the next few days.