In the deep corners of the Internet, vintage clothing enthusiasts still whisper in hushed tones about the "inspiration" library that Ralph Lauren created in the 1970s and 1980s. So the stories go, unlimited funds were spent to amass a horde of reference material pertaining to classic menswear from the golden age of style, the 1920s and 1930s. As a result, a veritable cornucopia of vintage Polo pieces were created that harkened back to that era. In some cases, fabrics were sourced and patterns were replicated so that many of the Polo menswear from that era looks like it was ripped from the pages of Apparel Arts.
I've been looking for that quintessential 1930s staple created by Polo, the three-piece double-breasted suit, for some time now. A throwback to the days of poor interior heating, the three-piece DB is certainly an acquired taste. You see them from time to time in thrift stores or eBay every now and then, but they're usually in the smaller 38R to 40R range and run in the $400-500 range for a suit in good, wearable condition. Nevertheless, I kept my ear to the ground and did not get discouraged.
Bolstered by menswear stalwarts like UrbanComposition, who has snagged some beautiful vintage Polo double-breasted suits from the "Made In The USA" era, I persevered. Eventually, my patience paid off when I found a vintage Polo three-piece suit that looked like it might have been ripped right out of a Lawrence Fellows illustration. Cut from a heavy flannel wool that features alternating herringbone and blue pinstripes, the fabric is something to see. Fascinating to behold up-close, but pleasantly subtle from a distance.
The cut of the jacket is also interesting. The lapels are wide, as one might expect with a vintage Polo offering. The button stance, however, offers a pleasant surprise. I suppose one might call it a 6x4 configuration. The middle button can be buttoned, but the lapel runs through the second buttonhole - the coat is meant to be fastened at the lowest button; indeed, inside the jacket, there is no internal button to fasten the coat inside at the middle row. The internal button is also placed at the lowest stance within the double-breasted configuration.
It's worth noting that while it appears that the configuration was designed with the Duke of Kent in mind, the middle button could be buttoned if that is your preference. The middle button is not symmetrical with the lower button, but the placement of the two differs by perhaps an 1/8 to 1/2 inch.
And the suit was a generous 42R, no less. What more could I ask for? Sadly, the one blemish on this sartorial gem is a small moth hole on the right lapel. As a result, the suit was for sale for next to nothing. As minimal tailoring is required, I won't object to investing a few more dollars into re-weaving, preferably via the artisans at French American Re-Weaving on 57th street, assuming they're still in business by the time I ever make it back to midtown Manhattan. In the meantime, I'll put away this beautiful example of vintage Polo Ralph Lauren, until the time is right.
